I can SEE the improvement!

Schritt für schritt auf Deutsch. Step by step in English. It's coming along nicely and the variation in the stitching keeps things interesting. The last bit I've done includes both couched trellising and long and short stitch.The trellising is made of two square grid patterns. The first trellis runs vertically and horizontally and the second runs diagonally.One trick that helps me when laying down stitches to make a square grid is to choose something that's the correct width to use as a stitch guide. Often I use my laying tool and once I used a toothpick for a tiny trellis, but this time the squares were larger and the pen (with the cap firmly on!) worked perfectly. Usually I work out where the stitches will be generally in the shape before I put in the first horizontal stitch. Once the first stitch is in, I then lay the "measuring thing" next to it as I put in the subsequent stitches to ensure they're evenly spaced.After putting in all the horizontal stitches, I then do the vertical ones, again spacing them with the help of the (in this case!) pen. When it's time to do the diagonal grid stitches, I no longer need the pen since, if I've done the first grid accurately, the second diagonal grid will be perfect by crossing the threads at the junctions. At the junctions of the grids, tiny cross and straight stitches hold down the long laid stitches and add a bit of delicate color to the design. It's a very open and airy look, especially when compared to the long and short stitch to come next.The area that is done in long and short stitch is first outlined in split stitch. The first row of long and short is worked from the outside, over the split stitch and then into the center. The length of the stitches varies and not all the long stitches are the same length nor are all the short stitches the same length. Think "longer and shorter" rather than long and short. It's the variation in the stitch length and going deeply enough into the previous row when adding the next row of stitches, that really makes long and short shading look smooth and beautifully shaded.The second and third rows are then worked by bringing your needle up through the first row, with the needle splitting the wool and again varying the length of the stitches. As I worked, I stopped and looked carefully at the shading and, if I wasn't happy, I would sometimes add a deeper stitch where it was needed.After thinking about the space to be filled and the colors of the wool I decided to use three shades of blue rather than the two indicated in the instructions. This way the shading was more gradual. Looking at the final result, I knew it was the right decision. The shape is large enough to accommodate three shades of blue thread and the shading is not too shabby! (Actually I'm really, really chuffed at how well it looks! I can SEE the difference my training at the RSN course made!))The Heathway wool is simply gorgeous to work with. The difference between one shade and the next in any family of color is just right - it makes the fabulous shading easy to achieve.Right now the whole area is quite heavy with the golden yellow colors - especially in this photo taken in the late afternoon sunlight!  Coming up next is a nice, thick blue border which balances the yellow beautifully! 

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Tricks for a smooth, curved button hole border

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Elements of composition